Knit Face Masks London Fashion Week 2015

Sarah Burton was thinking near Japanese kabuki theatre before she visited the Matisse Cut-Outs exhibition at Tate Modern this spring. The 2 themes came together brilliantly in a colourful, upbeat AlexanderMcQueen catwalk show. Picture courtesy of Alexander McQueen

DAM's way correspondent Limor Helfgott report on the highlights from the new menswear collections shown in London for spring/summer 2015. The design spectrum ran the gamut from retro 70'south flares to knitted pom-pom confront masks and from sleek tailoring to dark Goth style

BRITISH catwalks featured their signature innovative and edgy style mixed with contemporary and charming British classics. One of the outstanding collections of this season was Sarah Burton'due south latest evidence for Alexander McQueen that was held at the Royal College of Surgeons. She created an exciting, youthful collection with a streetwise border. The models were sent out on to the catwalk to the sounds of Missy Elliot.

Burton'southward inspiration was Henri Matisse and Japanese Kabuki Theatre. She wanted the make to feel "less period, less historical" this season, with a more progressive and unique look. Wavy motifs like a painter'southward brushstroke were splashed across white suits, loose turtlenecks and boxy coats. The shapes were assuming and sleek - leather shorts worn over tights, blood-red satin lining showing from under a lean white cotton coat and Prince of Wales checks on indigestible trench coats or appliquéd onto the front of satin bomber jackets.

Alexander McQueen's signature sharply tailored jackets featured tri-color swirls of white, black and reddish and were combined with long, pointy brogues or all-white tennis shoes.The clever thing about the collection was that at that place was a hint of punk rock in the outfits, even though many of the looks were a bright take on the best of classic English language tailoring - like the double-breasted suit teamed with sneakers. Burton as well made references to by McQueen menswear collections mixing pinstripes and checks together to create Daliesque contemporary suits.

"I wanted the show to be less period than usual, without so much historicism" said Burton back phase after the McQueen show. "What I got from Kabuki theatre and Matisse was an thought of scale and proportion, and the impact of simple shapes on a make clean groundwork." Motion picture courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Burton played on the calibration of three classic menswear fabrics: the Houndstooth, Birdseye and Prince of Wales cheque, used in combinations as a new type of patchwork or woven as Jacquards in the bathetic Kabuki pattern.

The construction of the jackets is pared back with a slight shoulder pad to give only enough structure. Silhouettes are oversized or elongated and trousers are cutting wide and loose or drop crotched and skinny. Moving-picture show courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Inspired by Matisse, Alexander McQueen'due south designer Sarah Burton used wavy motifs like a painter's brushstroke to splash across white suits, loose turtlenecks and boxy coats. Movie courtesy of Alexander McQueen

McQueen's sharply tailored jackets with swirls of white and blackness were combined with long, pointy brogues or all-white tennis sneakers. Picture courtesy of Alexander McQueen

An abstracted Kabuki pattern is the ascendant and recurring motif featured throughout the drove. It is used all-over, as an disproportionate placement or stripped back to just a single block of color. Moving picture courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Tailoring for the new McQueen menswear collection is slashed on the revere or nether the pockets, reworked as panels to reveal vivid red lining on long and lean coats and suit jackets. Picture courtesy of Alexander McQueen

The London fashion make Sibling are known for their kooky knitwear for men. This season they were inspired by working class Northern teenagers. The thought backside their West Side Story themed drove was virtually wanting to be part of a commonage or tribe. Withal is was a notably nonconformist evidence. "The pack anonymity of a group of hoodies, the upwardly-yours gesture of a boy in a skirt or the societal baiting of a shocking hairstyle... challenging conformity and in-your-face declarations are everything," said the designers. The collection featured pierced double denim, armour-similar spiked hoodies, a crochet face mask, bone necklaces and dark cartoonish skulls prints that were created by artist Mike Egan, every bit a function of his collaboration with the studio.

The Sibling catwalk was a wild evidence with a Goth feel to information technology but presented with keen styling - and information technology looked urban and mod. The show closed with two giant raffia pom-pom constructions that suggested the advanced designer Leigh Bowery (a regular Sibling inspiration). The finale could be considered a gimmick, only represented the individuality of the brand and fitted with the collection'due south message to teenagers during tough times: be yourself.

The Sibling catwalk show closed with two behemothic raffia pom-pom constructions that suggested the avant-garde designer Leigh Bowery. Motion-picture show by Shaun James Play a joke on British Fashion Council

Sibling are known for their kooky knitwear for men. This season they were inspired by working class Northern teenagers. The idea behind their West Side Story themed collection was most wanting to be part of a commonage or tribe. Picture by Sam Wilson, BFC

Sibling's collection featured pierced double denim, armour-like spiked hoodies, bone necklaces and dark cartoonish skulls impress created by artist Mike Egan, as a role of his collaboration with the studio. Picture by Sam Wilson BFC

Cartoon inspiration from his Ghanaian roots, Adrian Sauvage likes to combine his history with British references to subcultures, mods and punks. The designer continues the theme at this season'southward London menswear shows of taking the suit out of the office. Sauvage says all yous need is a printed shirt to apparel downward your tailoring at the weekend.

The drove featured skinny suits, bright bold colours and laced-up ankle boots in a palette of olive green, navy and bold yellowish. Despite other less formal garments, like botanical prints or a neon smiley t-shirt, Sauvage's signature tailoring dominated the line, with slim-cutting two-slice suits in unlike prints and colours.

Drawing inspiration from his Ghanaian roots, Adrian Sauvage likes to combine his history with British references to subcultures, mods and punks. Picture by Daniel Sims BFC

Sauvage's collection featured skinny suits, bright bold colours and laced-up ankle boots in a palette of olive dark-green, navy and assuming yellow. Motion picture by Daniel Sims BFC

The Topman collection took us back to the 70's with psychedelic hippy prints followed by 90's Britpop style, reflected in silhouettes, patterns and graphics presented on the runway. Showcasing a mixture of looks from the two eras, the collection featured flared faded jeans and parkas trimmed with pink fur. Topman'south artistic director, Gordon Richardson, said: "There was Brit Pop at one end and Woodstock at another".

The collection was bursting with bright colours and bold prints with '70s silk shirts mixed with flare-bottomed, loose-fitting jeans. The retro style was further enhanced with brilliant daisy prints, Paisley and pinstripe patterns. The key looks seen on the catwalk include suede jackets with fringes, cropped spread collar shirts, chaplet, mock turtlenecks in a palette of pastels. The show combined a 3D scanner and a soundtrack of Blur's Girls and Boyscreating a standoff of periods. Information technology may not all interpret to the street, but the prove was certainly eye catching and innovative.

The Topman collection took us dorsum to the 70's with psychedelic hippy prints followed by ninety's Britpop way, reflected in the silhouettes, patterns and graphics presented on the runway. Picture by Kensington Leverne BFC

Showcasing a mixture of looks from the '70s and '90s, the Topman collection featured flared faded jeans and parkas trimmed with pinkish fur. Creative director, Gordon Richardson, said:  "There was Brit Popular at one terminate and Woodstock at another". Picture by Kensington Leverne BFC

 Bursting with bright colors and bold prints, Gordon Richardson mixed '70s silk shirts with flare-bottomed, loose-plumbing fixtures jeans. The retro fashion was farther enhanced with bright daisy prints, Paisley and pinstripe patterns. Moving-picture show by Kensington Leverne BFC

Burberry Prorsum's creative manager, Christopher Bailey, created a wardrobe inspired by novelist and travel author Bruce Chatwin. A colour palette that was night and rich with a hint of decadence in bottle green, rich teal and deep majestic were the themes in the new volume cover drove. Denim jackets were aslope abrupt suiting and colourful sneakers teamed with floppy hats and satchels.

Velvets and suedes were paired with light linens in matching tones, trench coats and double-breasted suits were worn shirtless emphasising the Chatwin inspiration. At the terminate of the show every model carried a Burberry-jump artist's sketchbook. It was very British, elegant and the purest expression of Burberry seen in recent seasons.

Burberry Prorsum'south creative director, Christopher Bailey, created a wardrobe inspired by novelist and travel writer Bruce Chatwin.Velvets and suedes were paired with lite linens in matching tones, trench coats and double-breasted suits were worn shirtless. Picture by Sam Wilson BFC

At the end of the show every model carried a Burberry-bound artist's sketchbook. It was very British, elegant and the purest expression of the fashion house seen in recent seasons. Picture past Sam Wilson BFC

From the Burberry open-air bear witness in the sunshine to Tiger of Sweden's nighttime, industrial setting for their new collection. The leading menswear brand from the wonderfully stylish northern nation hosted their first drove exterior of Stockholm, with some of the best dressed Londoners taking front row seats. Uber male model David Gandy was at the shows as London men's fashion week administrator.

Tiger of Sweden's collection was inspired past cult American picture The Warriors which looks at the gang scene in New York City. Design director Ronnie McDonald explained that his idea was to create a Tiger gang wearing abrupt suits combined with sporty elements. This idea was reflected in the combination of rock'n'whorl mental attitude and rough elegance.

The collections showcased what Tiger do so well: slim-cutting tailoring, smart and modern, simple two-piece suits, dotted with touches of more relaxed, adventurous particular such as contrast-sleeved bomber jackets, tailored pinstripes and splotch prints. Forth with the signature suit, was also a new shape - a more than over sized and elongated design. The chief colours were inspired by the nighttime: blacks, charcoals and shades of greys along with touches of teal and rust. There were also references to the street art and graffiti that'south native to New York Urban center.

Tiger of Sweden's collection was inspired past cult American movie The Warriors which looks at the gang scene in New York City. Design manager Ronnie McDonald explained that his idea was to create a Tiger gang wearing abrupt suits combined with sporty elements. Motion-picture show by Kensington Leverne BFC

The collections showcased what Tiger do and then well: slim-cut tailoring, smart and modern, uncomplicated two-piece suits, dotted with touches of more relaxed, adventurous detail such equally contrast-sleeved bomber jackets, tailored pinstripes and splotch prints. Picture by Kensington Leverne BFC

Share this post